Ryan in Indonesia
TruthFal’s Max Carey got to sit down with Ryan Riley, local surfer and adventurer, to talk about how he got into surfing, his recent adventures, and the Cornish surf scene.
So, tell me a bit about yourself.
I’m Ryan Riley, I’m 23 years old and live on the south coast of Cornwall and my favorite board is a 5’7.
How did you get into surfing?
I started surfing when I was about 10, I had friends who surfed already and I remember going down to the beach one day with them and going out on a proper surfboard for the first time and just being hooked, before that we used to just stand up on bodyboards in storeys and stuff but going in that day sold it to me ! pretty much didn’t want to do anything else but surf from then on, started the surf club at school, reading surf magazines, pretty much quit all the other sports I done and just surfed as much as I could down to the beach.
“Surfing to me is just a lifestyle now, from fitness, traveling with friends and work. it pretty much covers everything I do.!
Have you ever wanted to compete in the sport?
For me I never really wanted to compete, I did a few competitions as a grommet and did reasonably well but I’d just rather go and surf good waves so I pro career was never really where I wanted to go. I am lucky enough to be sponsored by Ionwetsuits, free riders surf shop, shapers fins and helped by a few surfboard companies that give me boards 😀 so I couldn’t ask for any more really! I also have traveled every winter from the age of 18, getting to surf some of the worlds best waves such as, Desert point (Indonesia), Snapper (Australia) and Raglan (New Zealand) but I have still got plenty more countries to cover and waves to surf yet so there’s many more trips to plan!
What’s your favorite surf spot?
My favorite surf spot at home is probably Porthleven as I grew up very close to it, and its such a good wave on its day!
probably my favorite surf spot away so far would be the desert point (the grower) Indonesia, that left is madness!
Being from Cornwall, what are your thoughts on the Cornish surf scene?
The surf scene in Cornwall is almost a community there aren’t many places you go where you don’t know at least one person in the water at the main spots, I also like the fact you can escape the crowds of kooks in the summer as well if you want to because we have loads of spots up and down our coast that are really quiet if you know the right place, and the Cornish coast is probably one of the most beautiful places in the world!
How did you get involved with the local surf legend, Keith Richards & Freeriders?
I got involved with free riders when I was a grom about 11 I think, coming in and pestering Keith, hanging out with everyone down at the shop and going surfing with all of them, I still do this to this day haha but if it wasn’t for Keith pushing me in this industry I wouldn’t be where I am today so I am pretty grateful that he has always helped me out.
“The Cornish coast is probably one of the most beautiful places in the world!”
What are your plans for the future?
I think I will probably be doing the same thing as now, as long as I’m still able to surf as much as possible and working as a rep for a surf company and squeezing in trips over the winter and summer I think that’s all I need 🙂
Ryan in Indonesia
Ryan adventuring in Indo
Riding Portleven, Cornwall